Guest post: A love affair with Cyprus

It was my first visit to Cyprus, in fact my first visit out of India. After a flight from New Delhi via Doha, I arrived at Larnaca International Airport with loads of excitement and nervousness about spending 10 days on a different land. I was driven to a five-star hotel, the Alion Beach Hotel in Ayia Napa that sits right on the beach, so you can flip-flop between the hotel’s pool and the sea in a few steps.

The hotel was beautiful and the welcome impressively warm. By then my stomach was growling out of hunger so I continued for my supper at Vasos fish restaurant, situated close to a little marina, where I ordered a fish meze. In a meze menu, one gets a wide selection of meat or fish and a big variety of vegetables; the platters just keep coming and coming. The fish was fresh, and cooked with expertise. 

Crystal clear waters

The following morning I woke up with the excitement of not knowing what I’m going to see next. I opened the gliding white curtains of my room and I was awestruck: the magnificent view of the beach, cool breeze, the cloudless clear sky made me smile instantly. I captured the beautiful view in my camera and got ready for my tour. I first went to see the Cavo Greco Sea caves that lie between the towns of Ayia Napa and Protaras. The sea caves have been formed under water but you get the impression that they have been carved by a very skillful sculptor. Ayii Anargyri is another such place close to Cavo Greco, which is equally beautiful. There are astonishing views in all directions. Natural beauty at its best! A must visit place if you’re a nature lover like me.

The following spot on my rundown was Protaras, with its clear sky-blue waters and sandy shorelines, the most well-known of which are Sunrise beach and Fig Tree Bay. It is a standout amongst the most popular sea resorts and a great place for water sports and diving on the island and the entire Eastern Mediterranean (too bad that I am hydrophobic). It was peaceful, refreshing and picturesque and I could stay there forever. It was day one, and I felt that I had already fallen in love with this beautiful country.

Traditional delicacies

The food in Cyprus is delicious. You can enjoy the traditional delicacies at taverns (the traditional restaurants) in almost every street of Cyprus. The traditional food is fresh and of high quality. Halloumi cheese (goat milk cheese) which is often served grilled or with salads is undoubtedly Cypriots’ favourite delicacy. It was the holy Easter week when I was in Cyprus and I could smell the freshly-baked flaounes which are Cypriot Easter cakes made with cheese, spices and herbs. A large number of families in Cyprus produce most of the vegetables, fruits, olives, breads as well as many food items that they need. Indeed, they seem to be quite self-sufficient. Everything is cooked fresh and daily.

Cypriots eat a lot, just like in India. During my Cyprus tour I visited some of the best restaurants, like Pelican in Paphos, Andria in Peyia, Sykaminia in the old town of Limassol, and Evochia in Nicosia, to name a few. I visited Mrs. Sofia’s house in Letymbou village, in the Paphos region. She makes fresh halloumi and bread and she served us the best traditional food including salads, baked chicken and meat with potatoes, baked in the earth oven in the yard, pastitsio, freshly baked bread and halloumi served with Zivania, a colorless and alcoholic drink with light aroma of raisins. Cyprus wines offer some of the most captivating moments for a visitor on the island. The Cyprus wine routes, with extensive vineyards with indigenous varieties of red and white wines, are exquisite in that respect.

Fascinating, but divided capital

My next destination was Nicosia, which is the administrative and financial hub of the island. It is a lively city and has a cosmopolitan vibe. The best part is the old town, separated from the modern part by the quaint Venetian Wall, and has a throbbing nightlife. It has various bars and night clubs that give it a special appeal, suitable to all ages and preferences. 

It was interesting to stroll down the lively shops and cafes, and down to the so called “green line”, the buffer zone that divides Nicosia into two, effectively separating the self-proclaimed entity in the north from the proper capital of the Republic, Nicosia. The capital of Cyprus has numerous museums, ancient monuments, architectural landmarks and centuries old churches which constitute an archaeological and historical fortune. I was in Nicosia for two days and my adoration for the capital and the island developed considerably more. Cyprus has a rich history that dates back to over ten thousand years. The island maintains its historical legacy alive and well, through fascinating archaeological sites, old castles and fortifications as well as monasteries and beautiful museums.

Exploring Limassol

The following day was spent in Limassol, which likewise has a modern and cosmopolitan appearance. The brand new and impressive Limassol Marina is a must see place, boasting fashionable shops and trendy restaurants and hosting some of the foreign resident millionaires who ‘park’ their striking yachts right on the spot. 

While in Limassol, I visited the Kolossi Castle, overlooking the vineyards and citrus plantations on the southern coast of the island. It was originally constructed in the 13th century by Richard the Lionheart. Regardless of its age, the castle looks exceptionally well-maintained to this day. The Kourion site, with its ancient Greek architecture and rare mosaics, is another demonstration of Cyprus’ rich history. It is a stunning archaeological excavation, well known for its impressive amphitheater and acoustics as well as its spectacular floor mosaics.

Idyllic Paphos – Birthplace of Aphrodite

On my way to Paphos I visited Petra tou Romiou, birthplace of Aphrodite, the renowned goddess of love and beauty. It is probably the best thing I have ever seen in my life. I took some beautiful pictures there, so keep in mind your camera when you visit this spot. Paphos is a beautiful city, and the venues follow down the road, one more beautiful than the other. The archaeological sites are equally numerous and equally breathtaking – from the mosaics to the House of Dionysus to the picturesque Paphos Castle right on the lovely marina.

The most adventurous part was the jeep excursion to Lara beach and the Akamas Peninsula. It is completely unspoiled and a nature reserve, known for its protected turtles, notably the Garetta-Garetta that hatches in the area. Subsequently, you won’t discover any cafes/restaurants there. The soft white sand, azure waters, hatching turtles (though I could not consider seeing turtles as they turn out in the evening) is surely a delight to watch. There are several nature trails in Akamas, so in case you need to go for brave strolls, then Akamas is certainly the spot for you. Many visitors hike or enjoy a safari tour on a Landrover with an amusing but well-informed local guide.

A place to cruise

One of the highlights of the island, apart from the crystal clear beaches and the delicious food, is the excellent infrastructure. You can go from one corner of the island to the other in no more than 30-40 minutes; driving is a pleasure here. The changing landscape makes a cruise exciting. The relatively empty highways allow you to relax and enjoy the surroundings.

I’m sure Cypriots don’t need to go anywhere to spend their holidays because they are living in such an eminent place. There is scenic beauty in all directions. Going up to the mountains and visiting the traditional villages was an incredible experience. In this respect, given that in India we have many villages as well, I could relate with and, more often than not, I was comparing them in my head. The villages in Cyprus are quite advanced with good roads, restaurants, cafes and even Wi-Fi. Can you imagine? 

The houses and other structures remain untouched with their traditional style and architecture. Kykkos Monastery, Makarios Statue, Throni (where the first President of Cyprus, Archbishop Makarios spent his formative years as a monk, and then buried (so he could see his beloved country from the top of the mountain – a sort of Cyprus Mount of Shiva!), these are some of the fascinating places I visited. These sites are worth exploring, especially for their serenity, the lovely mountain scenery, and the panoramic views they offer of almost the whole of Cyprus. I must certainly return to the birthplace of Aphrodite to experience this island once more. 

Soumya Gemini works with the Cyprus High Commission